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Malpica
of the Bergantinhos region, thus called to distinguish it from
other place names in the Spanish directory of names, is defined
as the municipality's capital of administration and trade. The
first documentary records date from the XIIIth century, when the
town is cited as belonging to the estate of the Archbishop of
Compostela. In the XVth century, Sancho of Ulloa, Count of Monterrei,
snatches it from the Archbishop Alonso II of Fonseca, in order
to add it to his dominions.
If
Buño was founded as a piece of clay which turns around the "form"
(piece of the potter's wheel where clay is formed), Malpica came
into the world and grew throwing itself into the sea. Cardinal
Hoyo relates that at the beginning of the XVIIth century, the
economic activity of the town was focused on the fishing of cetaceans
in collaboration with the Cantabrian and Basque sailors, after
the latter had paid the tax stipulated by the archbishop of Compostela.
Even nowadays, we find samples of this type of fishing in the
joists which support the roof of many waterwheels or even of old
houses of maritime architecture which are present in quarters
such as the Atalaia or in the Areal. The cause of its importance
as whaling port was that Malpica was the seat of the Assistant
Harbormaster's Office up to 1895, the year it moved first to Ponteceso
and subsequently to Corme.
After the decline of the whaling trade's peak, the dangerous
cove (or "ribeira", i.e. shore, as the port of Malpica is still
called nowadays) became the cove of daring sailors on sailing
boats who used traditional fishing methods such as the "mediomundo"
which do not exist anymore. Subsequently, the fishing sector got
a new boost thanks to the appearance of the fish canning factories
and salteries. From then on, the fishing nets were thrown into
the sea to capture the sardines which filled the "tabales" (wooden
recipients where the sardines were salted) of the Abella or Modesto
Ordoñez families. In times of shortages, better fishing grounds
were looked for in the ria (tidal inlet) of Muros. Nowadays, Malpica
has a fleet of numerous ships for trawling and day fishing which
await the next fishing in a port which is equipped with top-quality
infrastructures (ice factory, a new fish market, industrial premises
for netmaking, big unloading port, sheltered dock for small vessels).
Characteristic of the Malpican port and a peculiar trade in the
whole of Galicia is the presence of the "boatmen" or sea "taxi
drivers" who transport the sailors from the pier to the fishing
vessels on their boats every afternoon.
But
the port of Malpica offers other attractions to the visitor. Among
rod fishers for squids, it is easy to feel nostalgic, while sailors
hoist fishing nets or while the latter and motorboats approach
the port packed with the night or day fishing. Sitting on the
ground, the tying women artistically sew the nets which got torn
in the depths of the sea. In the fish market, first thing in the
afternoon, the shouts of the auction await a buyer ("fishing"
in the local jargon) saying "mine" to silence the market and make
the purchase. The Sea Festival in August merges water, fire and
people into happiness.
After savoring any of the delicious dishes offered by the local
restaurants (fish, octopus, seafood stews), or between meals,
Malpica invites you to go for a walk on its steep streets, in
search of the warmth of a conversation around a bonfire and to
taste the grilled sardines. In the interior, inn people accompanied
by their wine cups talk about abundant fishing grounds and tough
fishing on the sea. The town squares mark Malpica's sea life.
Anselmo Villar Amigo Square reminds you of the singular personality
of this benefactor who emigrated to the city of Buenos Aires.
A long time ago, Santa Lucía Square was the place for guesthouses
such as The Hidden Treasure, where the Sevillean writer, Pepe
Más, stayed; and watch out for the Lower Baldayo on stormy days.
On
the walls of the House of the Sailor, a building which was inaugurated
in 1956, the painter, Urbano Lugrís, has left his marks. During
his stay in Malpica of the Bergantiños region, he left several
murals full of poetic texts, sea flora and fauna, sea legends
and literature; two hagiographic triptychs and a compass card.
With the back to the port, the seafront and the Major Area open
out to the Sisargas islands, both rest areas for the traveler
and meeting points of the surfers the whole year through.
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